RIDE TO RAJASTHAN | Mumbai - Udaipur
And so the adventure begins...
After three days of luxury in Mumbai and allowing our new surroundings to sink in, we spent a whole day purchasing a bike around some back streets of Mumbai.
Google maps took us to a street lined with motorbikes of all years and models, motorbike engineers tinkering away on bikes and a sprinkling of cafes (that seem as greasy and as busy as the mechanics shops themselves). It was hard finding a shop that would sell a bike to a ‘foreigner’ because of the lengthy paperwork process, luckily we found Daveed, who my David obviously struck a brilliant rapport with considering their names were (vaguely) the same.
After 5/6/7 hours (I lost count), we had one 2016 Royal Enfield Bullet, 350cc motorbike with a white paint job. Complete with a backrest, two panniers and a pretty shoddy bike lock so lame if you shout loud enough it would fall off. Nevertheless we felt like our India adventure was about to begin.
From fast-paced cities to rural villages, we covered 6 places in 7 days. This involved a lot of long rides but an incredible experience of this unique country.
MUMBAI - DAMAN
Approx. 4 hours - Not including Chai Tea stops.
Leave early to avoid traffic getting out of Mumbai. We left at 6am and it was pretty easy heading North onto the Western Express Highway to Daman.
If on a motorbike, I recommend a bandana or something to cover your face. The air is polluted and the roads full of soot. After every ride we were blackened with dirt, but this was the worst on the road out of Mumbai.
DAMAN
Not one of your most idyllic seaside towns, but it felt good to arrive near the water after the craziness of Mumbai.
Pulling into the town, we definitely stuck out like a sore thumb (or two quite filthy brits). One thing is for sure, if you’ve ever wondered what it feels like to be mildly famous, go to India. Within minutes of pulling into the town we were surrounded by locals taking photographs, shaking our hands and welcoming us. It’s a strange feeling at first but one is quick to realise it’s part of the openness and inquisitive nature of the Indian people. This culture quickly becomes endearing and if welcomed will lead to some of our most helpful and insightful meetings.
DAMAN - VADODARA
Approx. 4 hours 20 minutes - Not including stops to wake up your bum.
This ride was primarily on the highway. These roads are in great condition, its just the other road users you have to be aware of.
From a ‘tourists’ perspective, the rules of the Indian roads are, there are no rules. You can overtake, undertake, do whatever you like, just as long as you beep your horn incessantly to alert the other drivers that you're coming. Even after a week on the road the constant beeping is something I’m still getting used to.
This leg of the journey was by far the scariest. We witnessed an accident a mere 30 metres from us. Luckily no one was hurt, but for our second day driving on these roads I was shaken for the rest of the afternoon.
VADODARA
The day brightened up when we arrived in Vadodara. It was Sunday and this is Indian Wedding day. We pulled into street parades with huge speaker systems, crowds of vibrant colours dancing in unison, and the groom on a horse dripping in jewels and flowers.
The next day, we took a short walk around the town and booked our train tickets from Jaipur to Pune JN. (More on how to book train tickets in India soon). Then we hit the road again.
VADODARA - LUNAWADA
Approx 2 hours.
By far our best journey yet! Deciding to get off the highway and follow our curiosity, we rode through some gorgeous parts of rural India. Stopping at the tiniest, quietest villages. Tasting street food from shanty carts. Ordering chai, smiling and laughing with locals as well as some gawping of our own at the cows, goats, dogs and lots of puppies!
By this day we felt this was the trip we had imagined. The vast green vistas mixed with the unfamiliar smell of agricultural ancient land got us feeling full of wanderlust.
LUNAWADA
Simply a stopover, but the hotel we stayed at on the side of the road was home to the best spring rolls I’ve ever tasted.
LUNAWADA - UDAIPUR
Approx. 3 hours 45 minutes - Not including pee stops.
Finally we crossed the border into Rajasthan. The scenery instantly changed to desert style mountains, winding highways and dirt roads. We drove into Udaipur and were hit with a barrage of scooters, motorbikes and tuk tuks honking horns and weaving wildly through the tiny alleys. Imagine swimming through a shoal of hungry barracuda and stand back in amazement that this is really happening and theres no pile ups!
In amongst the chaos theres a wistful naïvety to it all. When the cars aren't flying up your arse at the speed of light, they’re beeping to wave and say hello. What initially seems quite aggressive is actually just the way to keep safe in India.
Even the teenage bikers riding three to a ‘scooty’ want to ask where you’re from on the middle of a highway going 80 mph.
Theres nowhere else you’ll see as many cows as there are motorbikes, nowhere else you'll see women riding side saddle on the back of scooter, nowhere else where there's the most beautiful pastel houses dotted within agricultural land, nowhere else you'll find glorious temples dripping in bright flowers, goats roaming the highway, dogs passed out by the side of the road, and LITERALLY everything in-between. It's a truly fascinating place.